When I do have an occasional gap or depression that needs to be filled, I just use Gorilla Super Glue with the blue cap. At the end of that process, fillers usually aren't even necessary as the two halves of plastic are completely welded together. After waiting at least 24 hours after the last section of a joint is completed, I carefully remove most of that bead of plastic with a #11 blade, and then the sanding and polishing begins (usually done under running water when the situation allows). I work an inch or two at a time, tapping Tamiya Extra Thin cement to the joint, holding it open with just a tiny gap between the parts for about 20 seconds, then pressing it together to form a fairly even bead of melted plastic along the seam.checking/adjusting alignment of panel lines, etc. My post assumes that the two parts have been joined together the way that I join them together. But, the polishing many times completely eliminates the need for any kind of filler because it completely eliminates gaps in most cases. All you have to do is shine a bright light at just the right angle across the joint and the mirror finish will make any low spots immediately visible. Going all the way up to 12000 grit puts a mirror-like finish on the bare plastic, which makes it really easy to spot any tiny gaps that may need a little extra attention before putting primer and paint on the model. I use those as part of my routine for polishing canopies, but I also find them great for eliminating seams between parts. But, I still have full sets of MicroMesh paper, pads, and boards that range in grits from 1500 to 12000. I have built car models on rare occasions, but I'm mostly about building things that fly, which usually don't require the high polish that cars do. With wood, you're not really looking to "polish" anything to a high sheen like you are on a car model.you're just wanting to get it so its smooth to the touch. Its just about the difference in materials and the finish you're trying to achieve.
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